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Zigging and Zagging

MP’s second wrap on that gradient warp is a different tie up & treadling — a simple zigzag (also known as straight treadling on a point threading).

To my eye, it shows the gradients better.

MP zigs warp width

The weft on this one is a organic cotolin (60% cotton, 40% linen) in marine. I like the softer color, too. Here’s a closeup of the weaving pattern. (I tried several times to get the colors accurate – no go. They’re much more vibrant in real life.)

MP zigs close up

I’m really glad that the cotolin isn’t like working with the linen – it’s as easy as working with cotton.

I’ll finish the weaving either today or tomorrow, then hemming, wet finishing, pressing, & labeling. I believe they’ll be ready to mail on Monday.

Here’s the box of yarn for the next 4 wraps. No peeking!
box o' yarn

My First Gradient

MP, the woman who gave me my first order for a custom baby wrap and one of my testing moms, asked me to do a semi-random gradient for her next warp. I owe her a lot, so said yes, even though I was quite hesitant about how much time it would take to measure the warp.

Although I could be wrong, I think that the people who do gradient warps have sectional warp beams, which entails entirely different warping equipment and methods than mine.

Anyway, for MP, I said I’d give it a shot. I used a 60-thread pattern on the mill to get from all one color to all of the next. (All A, 1B, 4A, 1B, 5A, 1B, 1A, 1B, 1A, 1B, 6A, 2B, and on.) I wasn’t obsessive about sticking with the exact pattern when I was threading – since I wind 2 threads at once, I allowed myself to pick whichever one I wanted off the lease sticks at the loom.

Here’s the first bout of her warp on my mill. I really like these two colors – turquoise & aquamarine.

MP's first bout on the mill

I forgot to take photos of bout numbers 2 & 4, but here’s #3 – charcoal to mauve.

MP's third bout on the mill

I got the loom all threaded up, and now have the first wrap about half woven. Black weft, hearts & flowers weave pattern.
width of MP's warp

While I like the way this weave looks, it’s not my favorite to weave since it requires 2 floating selvedges. There is obviously some small movement I make that causes me to break the right hand floating selvedge thread about every 20″. PITA!! I’ve tried to study & correct it, but so far, no such luck.

Here you can see how the gradient works and a closeup of the pattern.
closeup of MP's gradient

I think you can appreciate the gradient better on a plain weave than a pattern weave, but that’s just my opinion. Since I’m doing custom weaves on all the baby wraps, I weave what mama wants.

No Comparison

alpaca plaid closeup

A friend asked me to weave her a custom alpaca scarf. As always, I’m happy to do so. She chose the colors to coordinate with a new jacket, and picked the specific pattern from some images I’d sent her.

The lime and forest yarns are an alpaca-silk blend from WEBS, the cream and black are 100% alpaca from Colourmart.

For me, plaid is a PITA to weave. In this case, 4 shuttles are needed. Since I only have 3, that meant changing bobbins every few minutes. Plaid also means either carrying lots of thread up the selvedge or having lots of ends. In the case of this plaid, I chose some of both, carrying only the cream color up the selvedge, deciding there was too much space between other colors for carrying.

So weaving was slow. A short, narrow scarf – my friend’s choices – should be a breeze to weave. But not in plaid. I quickly bored of the time it was taking, even though I really liked the look of the whole thing.

plaid alpaca scarf

I decided I would not weave the 2nd scarf on this warp in plaid, but in a solid color. I went back to my weaving software & played with various patterns, deciding on an Ms & Ws treadling. That’s fine, but nothing else about the scarf is, in my opinion. I really kind of hate it. Don’t know that this well sell. I should have done another plaid. Poop. dark alpaca scarf

The good news was that I got to weave this on my little counterbalance loom. We’ve been missing each other.

Birds & Rainbows Fly Away

Laura Fry a the biggest proponent I know of wet finishing handwovens. She has literally written the book about it. All of her knowledge and reasons for doing so are right and true.

For me, the hard press on the last baby wrap was important for a reason in addition to setting the fibers. I found two problemmatic warp threads during the hard press that I hadn’t seen either on the loom or during my post-loom inspection. This gave me a chance to fix them before I mailed the wrap off. Whew!

I know that both NS & HM are really eager to see their finished wraps, even if it will be another 48 hours before they have them in their hands, so here goes.

NS was the warp designer and I wove her baby wrap first, with the marine weft. She knows that I had some hesitancy about the design, but I WAS WRONG! This is beautiful.

NS wrap rolled

I know – that’s really a tease. 😉 You can’t appreciate it rolled up. Here it is flat so you can see the entire width.

NS wrap, flat

And here’s a shot where you can see both sides of the baby wrap. They’re really not tons different.

NS wrap - both sides

When I got N’s done I set to work on the sister wrap for HM. You remember – she chose a pale green weft. Her wrap looks very different on the two sides. To be honest, I can’t decide which I like better, and just had to pick one for the hemming and mandatory labeling.

HM wrap - both sides

Here’s H’s flat so you can see the entire width.

HM wrap, flat

And H’s rolled.
HM wrap rolled

Now for a few comparison shots. I think pictures like this help people understand the major difference that weft color can have on a warp. The way colors interact have such a dramatic impact.
two wraps from the top

And here they are from the side.
two wraps from the side

I’ve got the custom scarf order on the loom, and expect I’ll get both scarves on this warp woven tomorrow. Then I can get started on the next two baby wraps. 🙂

Understanding Triangle

I remember learning about the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire in school. I understood the implications for worker safety and owner greed, especially those locked doors, but I didn’t – I couldn’t – understand how cloth was so flammable.

Then I started weaving. While all weaving makes dust, weaving 15 yard warps of soft cotton for the baby wraps makes exponentially more dust. After each run of 2 baby wraps I have to do a thorough vacuuming of the entire area. And this spoken by a woman who is about as far from a clean freak as you can get.

You need to really see what I mean. I just cut off the wraps for NS & HM, and here are a few shots of underneath my Macomber loom.

front of the loom

front of the loom

treadles & brake

treadles and brake

treadles from the back

treadles from the back

When you see that after just 15 yards, and realize that the factory was probably cutting and sewing hundreds of yards of cloth per day, you can see that it was a fire just waiting to happen.