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Silk Shawl News

You already saw the falling leaves shawls. Well, I decided to dress one of them up with some beaded fringe.

shawl with gemstone beaded fringe

I decided that the colors in the shawl lent themselves well to the use of some of my little gemstone beads, so used garnets, carnelians, and citrine. Plus some glass seed beads that mimic the twisted silk. I didn’t bead the entire fringe, but instead did 3 gems at each selvedge, 3 gems at 1/4 and 3/4 of the width, and 5 gems in the center. Here’s a detail of the center.

center beading detail

I told you I had woven 2 other silk shawls but they were waiting for fringing, wet finishing, and pressing. I used an 8H snowflake twill weaving pattern. The first I wove in a silver lilac silk-linen blend. The weaving pattern is very subtle, but I think beautiful.

silk shawl with silver lilac

As always, the pattern is so much clearer on the loom, when I’m very close to it with a bright light. You can see it better in this closeup.

silver lilac closeup

To make this one more special, I beaded the fringe. I added 3 Swarovski crystals at each selvedge, with seed beads all along the edge. I really like this one.

beaded silk with crystal

The second I wove in what seemed like a bold red-violet. It sure got toned down with the natural silk in this pattern.

red-violet silk shawl

And a close up.

red-violet closeup

I know it’s the kiss of death to sales when I say I bet I sell both this weekend, but I’m saying it anyway. 🙂

Weaving for Me

I’m waiting for a few moms to make decisions on the colors for their baby wraps. I’m taking the down time between wraps to weave for me – or rather to weave things I think I need for my upcoming shows — one this coming weekend and one the last weekend in August.

cashmere-silk-scarf

You already saw the red-to-orange-to-yellow silk shawls and the blue silk shawl. You haven’t yet seen the 2 other silk shawls – they’ve now been fringed & wet finished but are still awaiting pressing.

I want to bead the fringe of at least one of those shawls if I can make the time, but I haven’t even decided which one(s) yet. My beads may dictate that decision.

Meanwhile I tried something. Sandra Rude encouraged me to use my luscious tram silk as warp in combination with something else. I wanted to see how it would work with the fine gauge cashmere-silk blend yarn I have on hand (7,250 yards per pound).

I wasn’t positive it would work as well in real life as it did in my mind, so I decided to only warp for 2 scarves, not my usual 3. I used one strand of the cashmere-silk in burgundy and 2 strands of the tram silk (30,000 yards per pound) in burnt orange. I thought these colors would work well together, and that the shininess of the silk would play off the matte finish of the cashmere-silk blend.

Measuring, beaming, and threading the loom went pretty well. No real problems.

Then I had to wind a bobbin with the 3 threads – 1 of cashmere-silk and 2 of tram silk. It’s a bit of a challenge to make 3 threads be exactly the same tension when winding a bobbin, but it worked reasonably well.

On to weaving. I’m using a Swedish lace block pattern I’ve used before. I do love weaving lace. It makes me happy.

cashmere-silk on loom

I think in this photo you can see the interplay of the threads. The silk is not only a bit lighter in color, its shininess is really what the camera is catching. I just loved it. It reminded me of the end of a campfire, when the logs are mostly burned down and all that’s left are a strongly-glowing coals in colors of red and orange.

I wet finished and pressed, and only then found a few treadling errors, so I’ll have to fix them and then wet finish again, but it won’t take long – these things dry in a heartbeat.

From a distance of even a foot or two you see one color, but when you get closer you can see the depth in the scarf, the marriage of light and dark, shiny and matte.

I’m betting these scarves sell well. Even though I know from experience that what I think will sell and what actually sells are often very different. We’ll see.

I just got three more tencel scarves on the loom, and need to go mow some lawn before it gets too warm, even though the grass is surely still very wet from all of our recent rain. I plan to get the 2 smaller sections of my lawn mowed today, the larger section will need more time to dry out. But I gotta keep it looking good for the teaming hordes coming to view and give me offers on my house. (Can you hear the sarcasm there? When you live in the sticks in a poor county, selling takes time. Sigh.)

So many not-weaving tasks

neck cooler, before & after

Today is a day for doing many business-related tasks that are not weaving.

One of my fellow artisans kindly pointed out that the black knit dress Dolly (my mannequin) wears at shows looks like granny, while I want to attract younger women to my booth. So I made a few stops at thrift stores to find clothes that would send a different message and still (a) travel well and (b) fade into the background so the weaving I show on her would stand out.

I couldn’t find things that I thought were perfect, but did find things that I deemed an improvement. I thought a size 8 skirt would fit Dolly well. Hah! She’s clearly much more like a 6, or maybe a 4. So I had to modify the skirt by sewing some snaps in the waistband. Then I hemmed another skirt to be (roughly) above the knee instead of ankle-length.

Then I had to sew binding on two blankets made from that troublesome piece of mis-warped baby wrap.

Since I had my sewing machine out, I decided there was no time like the present to make a cooling neck wrap. I was so hot at the Roycroft show that I wore a constantly wet bandana-sized lightweight cotton scarf I’d woven around my neck, re-wetting it many times during the day. As a result my blouse was constantly wet, too. I didn’t care.

I have 2 shows in August, and while the temps have been much cooler than average this summer, that could change in a heartbeat. So I took another piece of the same lightweight cotton (I knew I’d saved that for a reason!) and sewed it into a strip. I had some plant water-saver beads for the filling.

I used the proportions from this tutorial, putting 1/2 teaspoon of beads in 3″ of the fabric. That did NOT seem like enough to me. So I soaked the first finished neck wrap in water for about 10 minutes before I worked on the second one.

WOW! What a difference!

more neck cooler shots

From this angle, the soaked neck cooler reminded me of an illustration in that lovely book, The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupery. The one of the snake that ate an elephant. If you don’t know the book, you should. An electronic version won’t do – borrow it from the library so you can see the illustrations.

Silken Dreams

Aside from my baby wraps, all of which are custom orders, I sell the overwhelming majority of my hand weaving at juried art & craft shows. So far this year I’ve only had one show, in East Aurora with my fellow Roycroft Artisans. Although I didn’t sell many pieces, those that I did sell were my pricier ones.

I have two shows in August so needed to replenish my stock. Weaving more silks and shawls seemed to be the thing to do.

Way back in early June I wove three silk scarves. When I set up for the June show I got a bit of a jolt when I realized those scarves weren’t with me. Where were they? I pictured my house—they weren’t where my recently-finished pieces usually were. What had I done with them?

Suddenly it struck me – I had put them in a bag and brought them to a Guild meeting to fringe, and then forgot about them. I knew where that bag was so wasn’t worried.

These scarves have a 30/2 silk warp – finer than the 20/2 I usually weave with. I used a gebrochene pattern, giving me the complexity I like. I wove the first one with 4 strands of ruby tram silk.

ruby tram gebrochene

I wove the second with 4 strands of tram, too, this time in a burnt orange. The orange tram was quite a bit finer than the ruby, so this scarf weighs nothing. To my eye and hand it’s by far the best of the three – the color, the sheen, and the feel.

orange tram gebrochene

I wove the last in a 20/2 twilight silk. Usually I love the twilight, but this time, paired with the 30/2 warp, it created a scarf that’s nice to look at but ‘heavy’ compared to that lighter-than-air burnt orange.

twilight silk gebrochene

After the show I moved to shawls…I’d sold 5 in June & needed to have more in my stash. I stuck with silk and with an 8-shaft pattern, this time in a ‘falling leaves’ weave pattern.

falling leaves draft

I had 4 complementary colors of silk that I wanted to use in weft. My plan was several inches of color one, then several inches of color 1 alternated with color 2, then solid color 2, then color 2 alternated with color 3….you get the idea.

I’m quite happy with how it turned out.

falling leaves silk shawl with gradations

falling leaves silk shawl 2 length

Then I decided to use those same colors, but instead of the 1-and-1 transition, I’d use the gradation plan I use for my baby wraps.
falling leaves silk shawl 1

falling leaves silk shawl 1-b

falling leaves silk shawl-length

For the third shawl on the warp I used 3 blues and the gradations. I also changed the treadling, beat a bit harder, and decided to hem instead of fringe. (I often have helpful, or at least helpful-meaning, artists offer suggestions at shows; last year one snarky artist said, “I’d never wear something with fringe.” Initially hurt, I decided to give it a shot. I won’t do it again, at least not on a silk shawl.)

got the blues silk shawl

The two darker blues – twilight and pacific – although quite a bit different on the cone, are too similar for the gradation to work. C’est la vie. Also, the harder beating produced a shawl that doesn’t drape as nicely. I definitely prefer the first two.

I wove 2 more silk shawls, too – they just got cut off the loom and still need fringing, wet finishing, and pressing. You’ll see them eventually.

1 Warp, 2 Different Wraps

I’m so glad I decided to cut off & toss that problem wrap last month. Weaving KC’s & CW’s wraps on the newly-wound warp was a piece of cake – a pleasure.

It went so well, in fact, that they’re off the loom, hemmed, washed & dried. I still have to hard press & label, but it’s a nice day to take pix in natural light, so did that.

Here’s K’s custom baby wrap, woven with a marine (dark blue) weft.
KC's wrap

And C’s with a turquoise weft.

CW's wrap

These two wraps have completely different looks, don’t they?

2 different wraps from 1 warp

While I was hemming & washing/drying I decided I might as well do that first piece I wove on the warp-from-hell to see if it could be used for any purpose. After all is said and done, I’m not comfortable with it being used for a ring sling due to that slightly ‘sloppy’ section as a result of all my tension problems, but it would make a fine baby blanket.

a baby blanket

Here you can see all 3 pieces – you’ll notice that the warp order is slightly different…my moms asked for a modification since I had to rewind anyway.

2 wraps and a blanket