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Learn by doing

Laura Fry, who I follow both through her blog and via Facebook, reposted this from Sophie LaBelle. I never heard of Sophie before, but google her and you’ll find her great cartoons.

Anyway, regardless of what you do, either creatively or repetitively, I found this story worthwhile enough to post again here.

quantity versus quality

While I always try to do my best at my weaving, and I am rather OCD, I know that I am nowhere near the perfectionist that some others are.

Unrelated – or at least mostly unrelated – I recently traded out some of my weaving at the Copper Shop on the Roycroft Campus. I was feeling a bit, um, disheartened that I only get 60% of the sale price of each item. Then one night when I couldn’t sleep I did the math in my head. I knew what my total sales were at my recent wonderful show at Chautauqua. And since I’d just entered the data into QuickBooks, I had a pretty solid idea of my expenses, too. So, if I count only my direct costs – jury fee, booth fee, van rental, meals, and the like – what percentage of my total sales did I actually end up with? 70%. That’s right…without counting a penny for the time of my three days at the show, my actual expenses were 30% of my total sales. And this was at a really great show. (FYI the next day I confirmed the actual numbers when I was in front of the computer, and I was dead on with my figures.)

It made the 40% that the Copper Shop takes seem totally reasonable. After all, they have to maintain a staff and has all the overhead of a permanent bricks and mortar store. Put my head back in a good place, and makes me want to send them more of my new work before the end of September when there’s a show on the Campus.

Next time you’ll see photos of my weaving, I promise. If you’re dying for a weaving fix, go visit my Etsy shop…I’ve put up two rayon chenille shawls in the past few days.

Mary Poppins and me

One of Mary’s sayings is “Well begun is half done.” With that in mind I began my year of 6-7 good finished pieces every month.

A common strategy for me is to do what I don’t want to do first, using what I do want to do as a reward, if you will.

So I started by sewing 51 bags.

51 bags sewn

Here they are sewn, in a pile, inside out. I have subsequently turned them right side out, ordered the needed ribbon and printed the needed tags, and threaded the ribbon and tagged them all.

Then I beamed a shawl warp. I’ve learned that for me, with rayon chenille I’m better off warping for just 2 shawls. Much less frustration in the beaming process, and much more consistent tension across the warp throughout the weaving. So here’s my first warp, very pale green to rich blue.

beaming green to blue shawl warp

I’ve since woven both shawls, but one is still awaiting hemming. I finished the other so I could bring it to a gallery that has some of my pieces. This shawl has a commercial variegated weft, which wasn’t my favorite so I made it into what is for me, a new design to add interest. Here’s the front.

shawl drape front

And the back.

shawl drape back

It’s not perfect, and I’ll make improvements in the next round…the front should be a little longer and the back a little shorter. The center back seam should be more tapered to improve the drape at the bottom. And I may add a few beads or something to enhance the front. But I’m happy with it, and the young women at the gallery really liked it, so I’m onto something.

This design made me much happier than the moebius shawl I tried. That shawl did sell at the August show, but unfortunately I was getting lunch at the time, so didn’t get to see the woman who tried it on and loved it. I couldn’t manage to make it look right on me. Glad she did.

Anyway, I have already beamed and threaded the next rayon chenille shawl. Really saturated gem colors. I am loving it.

beaming saturated gems shawls

Looking back, looking ahead

I had another WONDERFUL show this past weekend. It confirmed my plan – next year I will do only 3 shows. Period. Chautauqua in July, Elmwood in August, and the Weavers’ Guild Holiday Show in November. (Of course both Chautauqua and Elmwood are juried shows so I have to be accepted.)

an example of my outdoor booth display

This made me feel good. Then I sat down this morning and realized that this means that for these three shows I need to weave 6-7 good scarves or shawls each month. According to my records, I only achieved that 4 of the 8 months this year. That gave me some stress. So I looked at last year’s records, and I exceeded that number 8 out of 12 months, so I know I can do it. I just need to focus more, I guess. Or organize better. Or something.

I sold almost all my new work, and now I really want to find some more of that yarn I used for the Snow & Ice shawl. Everyone who saw it was impressed. Here’s what it looks like:

cotton 'Snow' yarn

It’s a boucle, but then it has the little globs in it, which made the ‘snow’ part of that shawl. Anyone know what it’s called and where I can find it? Cotton, please. Do you think it’s like Henry’s Attic’s Queen Anne’s Lace yarn?

Gotta run, but can’t leave without showing you my melon error. Clearly didn’t catch this in time, and now I can’t move it out of the chain link.

trapped melon

So many things…

…to show, just on the weaving front. Weaving like mad to get ready for my last summer show later this month, plus doing the regular things like seemingly non-stop lawn mowing. But enough of that. Here’s what you want to see. I hope. In chronological order.

A fellow Guild member is moving so had a sale at her house of some yarns, books, and equipment. I behaved myself, but did spend some money. And what I bought inspired me. I bought a cone of orange cotton yarn plied with electric blue metallic. Had to use that in some scarves!

I thought I wanted to do bumberet scarves, but after some planning and playing decided I’d do some random stripes and a simple straight twill instead, thinking it was a better use of the bling yarn. I used the random stripe generator at biscuitsandjam. Once I had a stripe arrangement I liked, I set it up on my counterbalance loom. First I used a burgundy weft.

red random striped scarf with bling

The second scarf had a medium blue weft. This is my personal favorite of the trio.

blue random striped scarf with bling

Finally I went with the knowledge that black intensifies color, so chose a black weft. I don’t really care for what it did; maybe someone else will. These 3 scarves are fringed and wet finished.

black random striped scarf with bling

Another cone of yarn I bought was this really highly textured, undyed cotton. It spoke to me. I pulled out my 8/2 undyed cotton, alternating it with some yarn I’ve had for a long time, and bought who knows where from another weaver. The cone is ancient, and when I bought it I did the burn test and labelled it rayon. I did the burn test again last week and determined that it is not rayon, at least not today’s rayon. I’m going to mark the tag vintage synthetic.

Anyway, the vintage yarn is quite fine – about 5,000 yards per pound, and VERY shiny. So I thought it would make an interesting weave with unmercerized cotton. I wound them together and threaded them together – 1 strand cotton and 1 strand synthetic in each heddle. Here’s what it looked like while I was beaming it. Can you see the sheen of that yarn? Cool, huh?

beaming snow and ice shawl

I wound a warp for 2 shawls, and only had enough of that nubbly yarn to weave 1. I decided to use both the nubbly yarn and the synthetic in each pick. Here’s how that looked on the loom. I’m soooo happy with it. You can’t really see the undulating twill pattern, but that’s okay with me.

snow & ice shawl on the loom

For the 2nd shawl I tried out a few different wefts. My favorite was to simply use the same yarns for weft as for warp. I am just in love with this, too.

undulating twill shawl, pearls and ivory

In addition to looking great, these shawls have a wonderful hand. They are soft and drape beautiful, with enough weight to be luxurious. These shawls are also fringed and wet finished.

Next up I moved away from the new yarns, putting on a silk warp for a set of 3 complex twill scarves. First in black and white.

black and white silk medallions

Next in royal purple.

purple & white silk medallions

I knew that I’d planned for this to be a long cowl, and subsequently decided I didn’t want that, so I had to make the fringe short or I’d run out of warp. So without enough length to make twisted fringe, I decided to add some beads, using both glass pearlized seed beads and small amethyst rounds.

beaded fringe on purple medallions scarf

I only had enough length for a short cowl, and chose red weft and a different treadling pattern. Obviously these are also all finished.

red & white silk cowl

Then I wanted to make some more tencel scarves, so I measured out white tencel for more complex twill.

First, again, black & white. This time squares.

black and white tencel scarf on loom

Next up a sage green, with the squares elongated to rectangles.

green & white tencel rectangle scarf on loom

For the third I changed the tie up, and wove with coral & white, back to squares.

coral & white tencel scarf on loom

I was sorely disappointed that I ran out of that coral yarn about 6″ before I wanted to be done. This scarf will be a little shorter than my usual. These scarves are awaiting fringing and wet finishing.

Now I’m trying something new-to-me. A variegated cotton warp with a rayon chenille weft. I chose to only measure enough length for 1 piece, since I’m not sure if I’ll like it, even though that’s an inefficient way to weave. I’m going to sew this shawl into a moebius when it comes off the loom. We’ll see if my customers like that.

cotton & rayon chenille on loom

I don’t plan to weave other things before the show as I have other commitments. But I still have to label everything and make more bags. Plenty of time, she says. 🙂

Not perfect

I try, I really do. I try hard to weave without errors in threading or treadling. I often succeed. But sometimes not. And when I don’t see the errors until a piece is off the loom, sometimes it can be fixed, sometimes not.

A few weeks ago I posted about a silk warp I’d just painted. It was 864 ends, dyed in blues and greens, and went on the loom a bit ago. My intention from the beginning was a more vibrant warp, so I was going to let the colors take center stage with simple twill blocks for the weave structure. When the colors turned out much more pastel than I’d anticipated, I could have, and maybe should have, changed the weave pattern, but didn’t.

The 30/2 silk warp is a rather nubly texture, and without the sheen of many silks. So I opted to cross it with high sheen 20/2 silk wefts for contrast.

I wove the first shawl using an almost chartreuse weft, for a shawl I’m calling “It’s Easy Being Green.”

Easy Being Green silk shawl

Although not colors that flatter my skin tone, it looks pretty good. Except that as I was doing the hard press I found some warp floats that didn’t belong there near one end. I couldn’t capture them well in a photo, so you’ll have to take my word for it. Can I needle weave them in? At least theoretically, yes. I haven’t sat down to do it yet, and don’t know how challenging I’ll find it.

For the second shawl I chose a sort of medium blue weft. This has as much sheen as the first, but that didn’t show up in the photo. I like the colors.

Caribbean silk shawl

But there’s a real problem with this shawl. I don’t know how it happened, or even exactly what the problem is, to be honest, so I can’t fix it. There’s one warp thread that stands out like a sore thumb for the entire length of the shawl.

Caribbean silk shawl, closeup

To the best of my ability to determine, it’s not threaded incorrectly (which would have shown up on the first shawl anyway), nor is it treadled wrong. But something is definitely wrong. Sigh. I’ll have to sell it at a discount.

I’m weaving as fast as I reasonably can to prepare for my show at the end of August and I most decidedly did not need this. Bigger sigh.