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Making a New One

A new mistake, that is. While I’m pretty good at not repeating my mistakes, I seem to be excellent at finding new ones to make.

I wound the two remaining bouts for KC & CW’s baby wraps, spread it in the raddle, and beamed it. I started threading the heddles. All was going well. For about 1/3 of the width.

Then, uh-oh. What’s wrong? Where’s the gradient? I KNOW I did a gradient between each of the solid color areas. Where’s IS it?

Oh, CRAP! I beamed one of those bouts ‘backwards.’ What was on the left should be on the right and vice versa. Since both edges of the bout were fuschia, it was an easy – and awful – mistake to make.

mistake realized

What will I do now? Walk away from the loom for a bit while I ponder the situation. Here’s what I saw as options:

  • Unwind the entire warp, flip the problem section, and re-beam. Unrealistic – at least not alone and without sufficient physical space. It would likely cause more problems than I already had.
  • Measure out that bout again. Trash the offending section and re-beam on a supplementary warp beam. Since my Macomber doesn’t have a double back beam, this, too, was unrealistic. I know it CAN be done with a makeshift supplementary beam, but I’ve not done it successfully.
  • Measure out the edges of that bout again and hang the re-measured threads individually from the back beam. Again, not realistic. Too many threads. I’d surely end up with lots of ends that were too lose and others that were too tight. And all tangled at the back.
  • Insert a new set of lease sticks in the offending section, flip that section, and keep on threading. I liked that option. But the only way I could figure out how to insert a new set of lease sticks was to thread the whole section – 180 threads – then insert the sticks, unthread the heddles, and re-thread. That didn’t seem like a good use of time.
  • Thread the rest of the warp from left to right – something I’d never done. Then remove the lease sticks from all but the offending section so I can flip it. That’s what I decided to do.

threading from both ends

I have to say, threading from left to right was very ‘unnatural’ to me, and I was not at all efficient at it. But it got done.

removing lease sticks from the correct parts

So I slipped the lease sticks from the already-threaded sections of the loom, removed the raddle, and flipped the lease sticks.

flipping the sticks

Gee, look at the huge X of crossed threads at the back of the loom. Bigger in real life than it was going to be in my mind’s eye.
a big X

Hmmmmm. Well, the center of the bout – the solid turquoise section – was fine. That part didn’t need to be flipped. And the fewer ends that were crossed the less problem I’d be likely to have later on. So flip it back.

flip it back

Now back to the front of the loom to thread those heddles. It still looks like quite the mess at the back of the loom.

all threaded

Here’s what I’m thinking…I’ll thread the reed. Then I’ll tie on to the front apron, being extra careful with my tension in that problem section. I expect I will have some problems down the road, but fortunately these wraps are average length, not the really long ones, and I always plan for plenty of extra warp length. So if I have to cut off after the first wrap and re-tie to the front apron, I can do that.

I hope that my plan works. If not……well, I’ll cross that bridge when I come to it.

8 comments to Making a New One

  • […] June of 2014 I put a bout on the lease sticks backwards. To avoid ever doing that again, I now put each bout on […]

  • Rhonda from Baddeck

    If I hadn’t seen this in practice, I never would have thought of it – the flipped lease sticks for that section (between back beam and reed). I’ve seen it on the loom, but no one was weaving at the time. It was in a production setting, and they used it when they wanted to ‘mirror’ the threading without winding a separate bout – saved them a lot of time. The lease sticks were tied in place and stayed until they were done. I want to go back and see how they handled it. Good luck with whatever you decide!

  • Jan

    I am very new at posting answers. Weavers always find a way.
    First I would insert my raddle in place on the back edge. Loosen tension and spread out all ends in their proper place. With the criss-cross under the best tension for weaving, place a bar with enough weights under the left and right sides to “equal” the middle section.
    It’ll need a lot of checking each time you advance the warp but it may be worth a shot.
    If it doesn’t work, I’d get a friend to help me unwind it and turn it around. Good luck. Jan (weaver since the ’70s)

    • Peg Cherre

      I like your idea, Jan. I’m going to give it a shot when I get back to my loom, which won’t be till later this week.

  • Alma

    Best of luck – – when the knitting ladies talk about ripping out, I counsel them to consider “custom” stitches. You’ve just done a “custom” job.

    Hope it works out well!

  • Perry

    Oh Peg! So sorry about that. This is surely one for the books. There’s always a bright side. You realized the mistake before you started to weave. I hope all goes well. I’ll be tracking and keeping fingers crossed for you.

    • Peg Cherre

      Thanks, Perry. The more crossed fingers I can get for me, the better – just not crossed threads. 🙂

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